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Monday, October 20, 2003

All things Vietnamese

We became instant millionaires when we stepped out of Ho Chi Minh airport. Ok, in Vietnamese dong, at least!

First impression...
Ho Chi Minh City (a.k.a. Saigon) looks like something from the 1970s. Trapped in the twilight zone in the 21st Century. Only a few tall building and thousands of motorbikes on the streets.

Second impression...
People are more reserved. More assertive when trying to sell you things. Not as smiley and charming as I initially thought. Perhaps, due to the years of war or I have been spending too much time with Thai people.

Favourite hangout: Ben Thanh Market
Daily visits to the market to check out what is new. Most comprehensive array of goods sold under one roof. Later, we realised that the prices from shops outside the market was cheaper than inside.

Most foreigners seen at one place: Dinner at Lemongrass restaurant
Almost everyone dining on our floor had a copy of The Lonely Planet on their table. Just like us!

Most sampled dish: Vietnamese beef noodle (pho bo)
Best noodles tasted in Pho 2000 restaurant, beside Ben Thanh Market. Apparently, Bill Clinton stopped by and had a bowl of noodles during his presidential visit to the city.

Greatest letdown: Vietnamese coffee
After a day and a half of tasting lattes around town, I concluded that I couldn't get a good cup of latte in Saigon as they were not milky enough for my taste buds.
Switched to tasting the local coffee. Coffee with milk here means being served with condensed milk. A tad too sweet for me.

Most drunk drink: Iced lemonade or Da chan
A cool lifesaver in the hot afternoons. "Da chan" ....the most spoken vietnamese word by Wayan, my travel companion.

Most used vietnamese word: Cam on
Means thank you. One of the few vietnamese words learnt!

Most interesting character: Miss Loi
She is the owner of our backpackers' lodging. She looks like someone from the 60s. Penciled eyebrows and curly "ala beehive" hairdo.

Most surprising find: Restaurant across the Reunification Palace
Recommended by Miss Loi's helper. Tasted some very delicious Vietnamese pancakes. Finished a whole plateful of herbs and leaves that looked like they were plucked from one's garden.

Most mode of transportation tried: By Wayan
....my travel companion who went on the regular metered taxi, a cyclos (pronounced "see-klos" is the bicycle taxi), and on the back of a motorbike taxi (pronounced "see ohm").

Most interesting spot: Underground military operation rooms
Maps still hanging in the rooms reminds us how close the enemy was during the war. Above ground, the stately room adorned by furniture from yesteryears. The retro 70s theme continues. Check out my Vietnam album.

Most favourite buy: Coffee Grinder
My cute little manual coffee grinder bought from the market. Now I can grind my coffee beans and have a fresh cuppa of coffee in the morning.

Worst buy: Wooden embroidered shoes
This was my maiden purchase...to break the "shopping" ice. Cost USD6. I wonder if I will ever wear it.


Photo: Coffee bean and Tea leaf, Vietnamese style

Greatest revelation: What is Weasel coffee?
These are coffee beans that have been eaten and then regurgitated by Vietnamese weasels. I will try not to think of the process when I am drinking it.

According to legend, the chon (weasel) would eat the choicest coffee beans, then digest the outer shells, leaving the innards to, emerge in long strings. Farmers collected the beans and roasted them—presumably after a thorough washing—to make a rich brew.

Most over-sold items: Embroidered handbags
After a while, you will realise that each shop is selling things of the same designs. You will feel as if the whole City is being supplied goods from one giant manufacturer of handbags, shoes, ceramic ware etc. Surprisingly, local people don't seem to buy these goods. They seem to be produced specially for tourists.

Greatest dream come true: My Ao dai
Finally owning a custom-tailored ao dai (examples of the vietnamese dress). Wayan tells me that pink best suits my skin color. So, I have now a pink virginal-looking dress. No idea where and when I can get to wear it, though.

Most romantic thing done at the wrong place: Walking in the rain
Afternoons were hot but becomes drizzly by evening. So, most evenings we had to walk in the drizzle. Normally, this can be rather romantic but not in Saigon....when you are walking on the dirty streets.

Most lasting impression: The motorbikes
Caught in the middle of a busy street, sandwich by moving traffic around you. Our lives were at risk each time we cross the street. It is surprising how no one gets knocked down while crossing the road!

More photos in my Vietnam album.


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